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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.